After bolting several scores of kilometers in the wrong direction, Jamie and Ginny (Jack Lemmon, Sandy Dennis) begin a long, bickery, endlessly comic trek over the many hills and through the valleys of western Portugal. Proficient non-speakers of Portuguese, we somehow blunder their way to Dolce, their hotel in Torres Vedras, which turns out to be pretty damn dolce. Torres Vedras, for the uninitiated, are the Twin Cities of Portugal. Why, I cannot say. Wellington set his lines there in the Peninsular campaign. Linhas, in the vernacular. In the evening, we dined at the hotel. I had a drink made with a Portuguese gin and a slice of pear. Lighter and weeter than a gin and tonic. I liked it.